Nioro du Sahel is probably the nastiest place I have ever spent the
night. It probably did not help that we had endured a hard day
off-piste and arrived as night was falling, so utterly exhausted.
We drove round and round trying to find the alleged hotel (another
raging success for LP guides) until we gave up and settled on a
rather dodgy campement recommended by one of Nioro's citizens as
being "good enough for whites". Unsure quite what kind of
endorsement this represented, we were offered a mud hut complete
with lockable (corrugated iron) door and tucked into our gourmet egg
After dinner we wandered
round until we stumbled upon a "bar" which whilst serving
well-chilled beer, turned out to be the local brothel. We
spent an uncomfortable night in our mosquito infested clay oven,
accompanied by the constant sound of rats scurrying around in the
thatch above our heads.
In 2005 it was the end of the hard-top when
travelling South; now the asphalt goes all the way to Bamako and
Nioro is just another truck stop where you officially enter Mali and
fill out the paperwork. On our return in 2008 we just kept
driving and spent an altogether more pleasant night camped out under
the stars a few kilometres beyond the town.
Return to Sahara Itinerary 2005►
Return to Sahara Itinerary 2008►