As
you might expect from a major city in Castilla with a university
dating from the early twelfth century, it has quite a bit of
impressive architecture including a couple of cathedrals, a fabulous
Plaza Mayor, palaces, a brilliant Art Deco & Art Nouveau museum,
(whose only downside is their inexcusable prohibition on
photography), endless monasteries, churches, even some passable
modern stuff.
Having said that, it also features my least
favourite of all architectural styles, known as "Plateresque",
supposedly reminiscent of ornate silverwork. I suspect that
Ruskin would agree with me that this style which is almost a
pastiche, untrue to the underlying structure and simply superficial
decoration is not a high form of architecture. Salamanca also
offers a number of other aberrant architectural devices, amongst
them the silly inverted arches in the Patio de Escuelas, which again
contradict their structural function.
Despite being a large city with a
population over 200,000 the interesting bits are all within easy
walking distance in the centre of the Old Town, the whole of which
has been designated an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inevitably it
suffers the occasional trappings of tourist tat plus the inexorable
cancer of McD, but all this is more than made up for by some quite
excellent restaurants even in the Plaza. |