Day 2

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As the sun emerges from behind the dunes, we are the centre of an instant market; where do they come from? Despite decision to start at 07:30, Mamou again reverts to African time and we leave an hour later. That would be fine except we also stop for two hours for lunch; not that we are in any great hurry, but it seems rather pointless just hanging around when we will be forced to stop as soon as it gets dark anyway, so there is very limited travelling time. The piste varies from sand to rock and we have to re-inflate tyres for the pass I have seen on video and swore I would avoid. In the photographs it looks tame, but in reality it is...interesting. Mamou has a distinctly Mauritanian driving style which comprises giving it welly regardless of sand, rocks or other obstacles; if inshallah he takes out his rear axle on a rock, then he will be stuffed...maybe that is why he was so keen to have us along. We discover his reluctance to deflate tyres for sand is attributable to his only means of re-inflating being an old, leaky foot pump. Still, the Hilux is relatively light and has enough power to get him over most of it. Mike on the other hand, with his puny 70PS VW with a laden weight well over 3 tonnes (due to his mobile workshop, spare gearbox, power jack - seriously!) is toiling up all the hills and has to deflate his tyres to the limit on most sandy bits. At the end of the day it is really relaxing to sit by a camp fire, sipping Mauritanian tea which is hot, sweet, sticky and tastes like something between green tea and peppermint; an acquired taste perhaps, but adds to the atmosphere.