I suspect
that, in its day, El Real Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial may have
been considered with a similar combination of awe and disdain as Versailles,
Schönbrunn in their time or even the Burj al Arab is today. An unnecessary
flaunting of wealth, in each case derived from the exploitation of those
less fortunate, and in the case of El Escorial at least, enough to almost
bankrupt the entire nation. Despite its rather austere granite
exterior, which I suspect will continue to weather rather better than its
modern day Arab equivalent, inside it is as opulent as any palace anywhere.
From a
distance it appears to sit comfortably, proportionately at the foot of the
Navacerrada. It is only when you get close that you realise just how big it
is, I mean, really big…even the limited amount you are allowed to visit,
though not photograph. Fortunately there is little they can do to prevent
you from photographing the exterior and the gardens, privet hedges I
remember from forty years or more ago, a memory perhaps reinforced by
similar scents from our own garden.
As I grow
older, I have started to look at each place I visit as a potential home in
my old age. El Escorial is a rather pleasant town, with a somewhat more
moderate climate than much of Castile, well known for nueve meses de
invierno tres meses de infierno. This combined with its other assets
made it seem a likely candidate for retirement, until I realised that every
Madrileňo has the same idea, so not only hideously inflated property prices,
but an ambience akin to an old peoples’ home. |