The annual boat race, which
takes place in the bay of San Sebastian, is more than an opportunity
for the young men of each town in the Basque Region to demonstrate
their prowess in front thousands of adoring fans, girlfriends, wives
and families. It is also the day when the symbolic
confrontation between separatists and police serves to perpetuate
the anachronism of freedom fighters struggling to rid themselves of
the oppression of...um...er...too much good food?
The scene is set the night before when
clandestine posters appear, depicting the victims of last year's
revelries (aka "political prisoners"), then otherwise quite normal
citizens demonstrate peacefully before retiring to the old town for
a nice lunch. Then, in a series of ritualised skirmishes, akin
to the running of the bulls in Pamplona, the youths, after much
taunting and general provocation of the authorities, are chased
through the narrow streets of the old town. Whilst it is
probably seen by most of the players as quite good sport, woe betide
anyone who gets left behind the crowd, for the herd of stampeding
riot police will pounce upon him and may, if they are in a good
mood, let him go (after a good kicking) or if not, haul him off for
"questioning". If and when they get a bit too close for
comfort, there is always the opportunity to dive into any of the
dozens of bars which remain conveniently open throughout the entire
pantomime. After an hour or so, both teams weary and go their
separate ways, the police to process the prisoners ready for next
year's carnival, the separatists to boast of their infantile
exploits in the bars alongside the contestants of the boat race.
And so the scene is set for the following
years episode in this never ending cycle of stupidity. |