| For the time being,
Istanbul is the only destination in Turkey on this site. However, more to come, including
Cappadocia. Much has probably changed since 1977,
but my abiding memory is of the filthy diesel smoke emitted by the huge
passenger ferries crossing the Bosphorous to Asia. Everything seemed
to close after 10 in the evening and the only thing to do was
sleep.
We took the ferry up river to Eyup to
see a bit of the prophet's elbow and found a quiet cemetery amidst the
perpetual grey. Old men rowed boats back and forth across the river,
muted colours and the smell of pollution.
When the sun shone, the mosques were
brilliant. Ceramics glistening in the cold spring light. Hagia
Sofia, the masterpiece of Byzantine architecture was massive, powerful,
almost overwhelming
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