It has to be said that, although the Toyota garage on the
outskirts of Burgos is probably one of the smartest such establishments
anywhere, any winter afternoon spent alongside one of Spain's
major trunk roads can hardly be classified as an ideal holiday experience.
However, following my enforced visit in December 2006, I did finally manage to enjoy a day of sunshine in the
old town and was not disappointed in my expectations of Castilian
culture, although it is beginning to show distinct signs of social decline. Maybe it was the time of year or something, but the
charming tapas bar I chose seemed to have more than its fair share of locals
wandering in for a plate of chips and brown sauce!
Anyway it was the city I chose to start my pilgrimage
to Santiago, although I was uncertain as to why I was doing it. at all
Almost immediately disenchanted as the "pilgrims" I first came across seemed
to exhibit all the characteristics of a bunch of parasites, interested only
in the availability of cheap accommodation and preferential treatment.
I was expecting the worst after my experience in St Jean last winter, with
everyone apparently out to rip off the aspirant pilgrim, but here it seemed
to be the other way round, with pilgrims intent upon extracting their
"rights" from the well-intentioned locals who were equally determined to offer uncompromising
hospitality in the "spirit of the Camino".
Burgos is famous for its magnificent Gothic
cathedral which is frustratingly difficult to photograph, due to the
surrounding buildings; not helped by a blanket ban on photographs of the
interior. In the event no-one seems to bother about that, even for
those who insist on flash photography of distant objects.
A thoroughly pleasant city, full of comfortable
hotels, bars and restaurants; what do you expect from the capital of
Castilla? |